The world of RC has many different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of several areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in relation to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not necessarily mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I had to scoop one as much as see what each of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
HOW MUCH: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning before the motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing
This drifter has considerably choosing it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very reasonable price. Handling is good at the same time after you get accustomed to the kit setup, and yes it accepts a really wide range of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for people who prefer to tinker, and this car should grow along as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts on the bottom for that front and back diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these can be used as mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually quite a few left empty. They can be utilized to control chassis flex, yet not together with the stock top deck; an optional you need to be found. The design is just like a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. All things are easy to access and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll whilst the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars may be the serious volume of steering throw they have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as close to the edges of your chassis as you possibly can. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, where front and back belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 a little bit of beauty, I prefered 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick pair of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, but I do remember a method I used some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outside using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the ultimate result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
Around The TRACK
Just for this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter down on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to accomplish a photograph shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and have some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is pretty amazing. As I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. Including the CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a little bit funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This can be, to some extent, on account of the awesome handling of the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete simply that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in affect the angle in the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase the throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a little along with the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is designed for exactly that. I did must be a little bit creative with all the install in the system on account of only a little space on the chassis, but overall it resolved great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it does go on a little becoming accustomed to with the knowledge that an auto losing grip and sliding is the correct way throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you have it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at below two or three inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, as well as the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you are such as you need more of something anything there’s a lot of items to adjust. I just enjoyed the vehicle using the kit setup and yes it was only dependent on battery power pack or two before I was swinging the back throughout the hairpins, around the carousel and backwards and forwards through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything that fast. I have done, however, come with an issue with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept by using it, seeking to overcome the situation with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it straight into actually look it over. In the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, when the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.